March 9, 2015

Mount St. Helens: 2015 Snowpack Comparison

The warm and sunny weather yesterday provided a perfect opportunity to check out the snowpack conditions on Mount Saint Helens. I was expecting less than average snow for this time of year but I did not expect August like conditions. The Marble Mountain Sno-park is completely free of snow and the Worm Flows route does not hit snow until the USGS monitoring station at 5,600 feet. The conditions reminded me of what I typically see on the summer route in July or August.

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September 12, 2014

The Tooth: South Face Route

Standing on the Summit

Climbing the Tooth in Washington has been on my list of climbs for some time now. My friend and I decided to climb it yesterday and we had a lot of fun. We climbed it via the South Face route which is rated 5.4 and has a pitch or two of 4th class along the way.

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September 9, 2014

Ingalls Peak: South Ridge

View of Mount Stuart
My friend and I had a few climbs planned this week and the first one on our list was Ingalls Peak. We chose to do the South Ridge which has a few 5.4 pitches along with some class 3/4 scrambling. The climbing was really good except for the serpentine which was a bit slippery. The best part about this climb is the scenery. The view of Mount Stuart in the background was amazing and we even had a few mountain goats hanging out at our camp.

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September 7, 2014

Three Fingered Jack Climb


After running into a traffic jam on Three Fingered Jack a few weeks ago, we decided to return to finish the last 200 or so feet of the climb. We ran into a large group of climbers on the way up but after waiting near the base of the summit block we eventually got to make our way up. The Crawl was a fun traverse with a lot of exposure. Luckily the rock felt pretty solid under my feet and most of the loose stuff has been kicked off already. The final chimney was a lot of fun and was easy climbing on somewhat solid rock.

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September 2, 2014

Broken Top Climb


After turning back at 9,100 feet on Mount Baker due to a thin snow bridge, we decided we needed to drive somewhere else to get a summit in. We ended up driving all the way back to Oregon to climb Mount Bachelor and Broken Top. The weather was great but the rock on Broken Top was loose and crumbly. I’d probably consider this one a one and done…

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September 1, 2014

Mount Baker: Easton Glacier Attempt

View from Camp

For the second time this year, my girlfriend and I along with one of my good friends tried to climb Mount Baker. This time we attempted via the Easton Glacier route. Unlike last time, the weather cooperated but unfortunately it was a bit late in the season. After navigating around tons of crevasses in the dark, we ended up turning back at 9,123 feet due to a sketchy snow bridge.

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